The sun is shining for everyone: Afghanistan is opening up for tourism
After the flight of the Americans, which was watched live by the whole world, Afghanistan has confidently returned to the international news agenda. Today, Kabul is actively developing cooperation with global and regional powers. Within a country that has lived in a state of continuous war for several decades, great attention is being paid to security issues. At the same time, the authorities seriously intend to develop inbound tourism and are ready to let foreigners in quite freely. The Izvestia correspondent took advantage of the window of opportunity and found out what he could expect on such a trip.
There are a lot of myths associated with Afghanistan. Let's try to figure out how they relate to reality.
It's dangerous there, they can arrest, rob or even kill
5-10 years ago, something like this could easily happen and has happened. According to local residents, it was scary even in Kabul after sunset. And there was no need to talk about other cities, especially in the border areas, where ISIS thugs were rampaging (IS, the organization is recognized as terrorist and banned in the Russian Federation). However, after the Taliban gained power, the security situation inside the country became much better.
Today, ISIS is almost completely squeezed out, the drug trafficking they control is practically blocked, and public order is rigidly enforced wherever necessary. Yes, the streets are full of people with machine guns. Yes, there are roadblocks on all roads. But foreign tourists have the opportunity to travel freely. For example, in just a few days, the Izvestia correspondent had the opportunity to meet guests from Poland, Germany, France, Canada, Australia, Iran, Singapore and Malaysia in different parts of the country. Some traveled alone, others as part of a small group, but everyone noted that they felt safe.
Afghans are especially friendly to Russians. Many still speak Russian. Even more people understand Russian and, upon hearing it, invariably smile. "When the Shuravi came to Afghanistan, they built schools and hospitals, factories and roads here. We still use all of this today. The Americans have been destroying everything for 20 years," explains the taxi driver Akram, who explains his kind attitude towards Russians.
To travel to border areas like Mazar-I-Sharif, you need to get a permit in advance at the police station, always keep it with you and present it on demand. In principle, this is enough. But if necessary, if you are part of a group, you can ask for armed guards to accompany you.
There's nothing to see and nothing to do
The main question facing an experienced traveler is why go to an unfamiliar place with an ambiguous reputation? In the case of Afghanistan, the question is all the more urgent, because few people have been there — there is often no one to ask, and almost any television report from this country broadcasts a rather gloomy picture — dust and dirt everywhere, broken asphalt and sun-scorched earth, dilapidated houses and rusting tanks, rare women in burkas on the streets, and harsh bearded men with kalashnikov rifles at the ready. Of course, all this is found in Afghanistan (but is it only there?), but it would be a big mistake to assume that there is nothing else.
First of all, it is a very beautiful country with stunning mountains, picturesque valleys filled with apple orchards, stormy rivers and lakes as serene as eternity. It is easy to verify this by driving, for example, to Bandamir, the country's first national park. After the pacification of the country, tens of thousands of Afghans come there every year to relax in the cool shade of trees, taste local apples, go boating and catamarans, and if you have the guts, plunge into the icy water of the most delicate turquoise color. The Izvestia correspondent had the guts.
Afghanistan is also a country with an ancient culture and a rich history of several thousand years. Unsurprisingly, diverse traces of this generous and emphatically multicultural heritage can be found everywhere. Undoubtedly, the harsh citadels in Bamyan and Herat, the mighty ramparts of ancient Bahla and the nearby ruins of the oldest Afghan mosque, Haji Piyad, the majestic Blue Mosque and the mausoleum of the fourth righteous Caliph Ali in Mazar-i-Sharif, the ruins of the royal palace in Jalalabad, the Ziyarat-e-Sakhi Mosque, the gardens of Babur and the Amin Palace in Kabul.
The Afghan authorities monitor the monuments and, as far as possible, maintain them in decent condition, and some even restore them. However, there are also some peculiarities here. Once upon a time, the Taliban blew up the majestic Buddha statues in Bamiyan. But today, the niches with fragments of ancient statues are preserved and strictly guarded in the hope that one day something will be restored here.
There are no roads or hotels there.
Things are really not going well with the tourist infrastructure in Afghanistan. There are no resorts in the country in the usual sense of the word for Russians — with cuisine and service oriented to the needs of foreign guests, sports and playgrounds, specially equipped beaches for joint recreation, etc. Tourism in Afghanistan is not about recreation, but about new experiences. At least for the moment. This type of leisure will be of interest primarily to experienced travelers who are internally prepared for some everyday inconveniences.
However, in almost any city you can find some kind of 2-3 star hotel. As a rule, they are located in a well-guarded area, where you can't just walk in from the street. But the guests feel completely safe. In Kabul, there are also four-star hotels of a fairly decent European level, where, in addition to the ubiquitous scrambled eggs, they serve herculean porridge with milk and toast with butter and jam for breakfast. However, coffee is only instant everywhere. You'll have to go to the city to get the custard.
However, it should be borne in mind that hotels are divided into male and female halves, and representatives of the opposite sex should not enter their "own" territory, especially in rooms. Of course, if the guests are not a married couple. Spouses are even allowed to hold hands while walking down the street.
Roads in the country are really difficult, even in Kabul there are problems with asphalt — it can end at the most unexpected moment. However, the international routes along which trucks with goods flow are maintained in good condition. Therefore, oddly enough, it is sometimes more comfortable to drive long distances than short distances. However, to save time and effort, it is better to use domestic flights — the Afghans themselves are willing to do this. The only and, unfortunately, so far completely unsolvable problem is non—compliance with the schedule. At the very last moment, the flight may be postponed for several hours, but you will only find out about it at the airport.
There's nothing to eat
The standard of living in Afghanistan is really low, everyday life is modest and unassuming. But strangely, this is least of all about food. There are a lot of multi-format restaurants and cafes in the cities, where you can have a great meal for a very modest amount. On top of that, the portions in Afghanistan are gigantic.
Locals, especially in markets and shops, have meals right at their workplace, and the ubiquitous boys bring them all kinds of food. In addition, carts with fruits and hot bread are constantly moving along the streets, which are baked on every corner.
The local cuisine is much more diverse, for example, Iranian. It is as multicultural as, for example, Afghan architecture. The main dish on the table is pilaf, or, more precisely, a dozen varieties of it. Perhaps the most famous is kabuli palav, made from steamed long—grain rice with raisins, almonds, caramelized carrots and pieces of beef or lamb, generously seasoned with aromatic spices. Meat is also well prepared in Afghanistan — it is fried on coals, stewed, boiled, baked. Therefore, almost everywhere you can safely order kebabs and kebabs.
Other very traditional dishes worth paying attention to are borani bajan (eggplant stewed in tomato sauce with thick garlic yogurt), ashak dumplings with leeks and rosh (boiled or stewed lamb ham, which is usually served with potatoes and a pod of hot pepper). There are soups on the menu, but they usually have starch added to them, so their jelly-like consistency may seem unusual to a Russian tourist.
Popular street food is prepared on the streets — giblets stewed with tomatoes and peppers and bolani tortillas stuffed with herbs, potatoes or lentils, which are fried in vegetable oil and served with a sauce based on yogurt and mint.
In general, Afghan cuisine is not spicy and is quite delicate, as spices are used in moderation.
A few rules that will help you not ruin your trip
It is not necessary to photograph women and people with guns, especially at checkpoints or near police stations. You can run into trouble. You should ask permission first. With a high degree of probability, you will not be refused. Moreover, they will willingly take a picture with you.
Do not wear provocative or overly revealing clothes. Women are recommended to wear a floor-length dress and a headscarf.
You should not even try to carry alcohol with you, even if you bought it at duty free. If they find him, trouble is guaranteed.
It is strongly recommended not to drink unleaded water, as well as to eat vegetables and fruits if you have not washed them yourself.
It is better to abandon independent trips to the mountains in the border areas. Sometimes you don't meet the nicest people there.
What else is useful to know
There are no traffic rules in Afghanistan. About one in ten has a license, but that doesn't stop anyone from driving as they please. Therefore, it is best to travel by taxi in cities, especially since it is cheap.
You should definitely have a supply of cash with you, since cards are not accepted everywhere.
The sockets in the country are European, no adapter is required.
Smile and be polite — the Afghans appreciate it and will certainly respond in kind.
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